2022年10月,夏木很荣幸地邀请到Penultimate合作一组独特的设计系列,我们以“怪谈”为主题,为其提供了定织定染的夏布及苎麻纤维,创作出一组与古老土地相关的时装作品。
Penultimate由设计师Gao Xiang(高翔)创办于纽约,2020年工作室移至上海,为近年来最为新锐的华人设计师之一。(WWD)
Penultimate is a brand founded and headed by designer Xiang Gao, a project that feels more like a reflection of her personal journey and experiences than a clothing label. A Parsons’ graduate, Xiang spent two years at Raf Simons’ Calvin Klein where her practice was shaped by visual research–near endless examination of archival photography that pictured Americana, American cowboys, quilts, and the like. The experience not only taught her about the depths to which true understanding could extend, but also helped her begin to appreciate visual cultures and craft practices that may have seemed outdated. Xiang is quoted saying “Let’s say all those quilts and the cowboy boots, those Western motifs. In finding new ways to use them, I eventually found it quite beautiful.”(HUIBEN)
关于这组作品:
Pieces of Our Land
记这片土地的石、花、叶、树、果、龟、鼠、莲,于麻衣。
(系列)面料采用手绩苎麻,植物染色,装饰莲蓬玉石纽扣;手工绘制花朵形状纽扣和手工刺绣叶子扣眼。刺绣图案来自于波兰天主教耶稣会传教士卜弥格(1612-1659)的拉丁文著作《中国植物志》,1656年在维也纳出版,此书收录中国名花和珍奇动物若干种,标有中国名称,并附有23幅插图。这是欧洲发表的第一部关于远东和东南亚大自然的著作。
Penultimate
图片:上海当代艺术博物馆
相关合作展出的详情,可浏览《怪谈:新文化制作人之「手艺再兴」展》。